Cooking Lesson #966: Paris Bistro Potatoes

…from the Perspectives’ Kitchen

How you doin’?  My Paris Bistro Potatoes are as light as a cloud and perfect for the holidays.

Paris Bistro Potatoes, also known as pommes de terre chantilly, are puréed potatoes folded together with heavy whipping cream before being baked under a layer of cheese.
 
They’re super soft and light, with an almost soufflé-like texture and a crisp cheese crust and the best part is that they’re almost as easy to make as regular mashed potatoes. After just one taste, I think you’ll be convinced that the two extra steps are totally worth the effort to give a classic potato side dish a Paris upgrade.
 
To make the softest, most lusciously cloud-like potatoes, you’ll need a potato ricer or food mill. These tools break up the boiled potatoes into very tiny particles, keeping the purée or mash very airy and smooth, not gluey. Using one of these tools is the key to achieving the distinct texture this dish is known for, as well as for making super velvety mashed potatoes and the best homemade gnocchi.
 
If you don’t have a potato ricer and don’t have the means to acquire one, I would suggest pressing the boiled potatoes with the back of a spoon through a slightly larger than fine mesh sieve. It will take more time and effort but will give similar results.
 
You can also make these potatoes with mashed potatoes that you’ve done the old-fashioned way—with a potato masher or even a fork. While you will get deliciously creamy Bistro potatoes, you will definitely not achieve the distinct, slightly soufflé texture that sets this dish apart.
 
If you want to add a little bit more flavor or texture to highlight the richness of these potatoes, you have options. Here are my favorite ways to switch-up this classic recipe:
 

• Fold minced chives or caramelized onions into the potatoes
• Smash roasted garlic through the potato ricer or food mill along with the potatoes
• Use shredded Gruyere, Swiss or cheddar in lieu of, or alongside, the Parmesan cheese
• Top the baking dish with both breadcrumbs and cheese for an extra-crispy finish

 
Tips for Making Ahead
 
Due to the delicate and temperature-dependent nature of whipped cream, there’s not a lot of room to prepare this dish before the final bake. Leftovers, however, will keep and reheat well in the microwave or oven. If you want to serve this dish but can’t find the time to make it on the day of, you can bake them through, let them cool and store in the fridge. Reheat and serve.
 
Prep time:  20 minutes
Cook time:  40 minutes
Yield:  6 to 8 servings
 
This recipe calls for an 8x8-inch baking dish, but you can use any other 2 to 2 1/2 quart baking dish you have on hand. Just make sure there is a little bit of room as the potatoes will rise slightly as they bake.
 
Ingredients
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed and at room temperature, divided
2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1-inch cubes
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/3 cup whole milk, room temperature
1 cup heavy cream, cold
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
 
Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 400° F.  Place a rack in the center of the oven.
2. Use 1 tablespoon of butter to grease your baking dish.

Boil the potatoes:

1. Add the cubed potatoes to a large pot with the salt and add enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
2. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium-low and continue cooking the potatoes until they are very soft and tender all the way through, about 12 minutes. There should be little to no resistance when poked with a fork or knife.
3. Drain in a colander and let cool slightly.
4. Once the potatoes have cooled slightly (there is little to no steam coming off the potatoes), press them through the potato ricer or food mill into a large bowl. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter to the bowl, then add the milk and stir until the mixture is homogeneous. Taste and season with salt as desired, then set aside.
5. Add the cold heavy cream to another bowl and use an electric hand mixer with beaters on medium speed or a stand mixer to whip to stiff peaks, 3 to 5 minutes.
6. Add about one-third of the whipped cream to the bowl with the potato purée.
7.  Use a rubber spatula to gently fold the whipped cream into the potatoes. Once combined, add another third, fold, then repeat with the remaining whipped cream.
8. Gently pour the potato mixture into the buttered baking dish and smooth out the top.
9. Sprinkle evenly with the grated Parmesan cheese. Bake until the cheesy top is lightly browned, and the potatoes have slightly souffléd to the top of the baking dish, about 25 minutes.
10. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving.

ChefSecret:  Keep leftovers in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days. Reheat, covered, in the microwave or a preheated oven at 350°F until hot all the way through.

Quip of the Day:  Q: What do you call a potato watching a game?  A: A spec-tater.
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