Cooking Lesson #1145: Osso Buco

…from the Perspectives’ Kitchen

How you doin’? As we move through winter and some pack the away grill for the cold months, I start looking for long-cook hearty meals. That means get out the Instant Pot, Crock Pot and even the Dutch Oven pot.
 
One of the first recipes I’ll go for are Italian dishes, and Osso Buco will be on the top of my list which can be cooked with any of the appliances listed above.
 
"Osso Buco" means "hole of bone" because the marrow provides the rich flavor to the sauce. A marrow spoon, one of those long skinny spoons found in old sterling silverware sets, would come in handy with this dish, as the succulent shank marrow can be tricky to extract (I used the skinny end of a teaspoon). That was one of the trick questions on the tour of Hearst Castle--What is this funny spoon used for?
 
Osso Buco is an Italian entree of braised veal shanks and veggies. When I see it on an Italian restaurant’s menu I always feel compelled to order it, but it is rarely as good as I can make here at home.
 
The bones of this recipe were given to me by a friend of mine who owns an Italian restaurant in San Francisco. It is a secret recipe that his grandfather brought over from Rome. The big secret is this recipe calls for pancetta (Italian uncured bacon), instead of olive oil, for the browning of the veal and cooking the vegetables. The pancetta adds a different flavor note, so use it if you can.
 
The second big secret (I am sharing all of my secrets) is the gremolata (parsley, lemon zest, and garlic) which adds a pungent garnish for Osso Buco. Don’t take a short cut and skip it. Gremolata is a fantastic Italian garnish.
 
Veal shanks are the traditional meat for Osso Buco, and probably what you're used to seeing on restaurant menus. But sometimes they are hard to find. Lots of people think of an image of cooking a baby calf. The shank ingredient can be from several animals and can benefit from this same preparation—lamb, goat, pork, beef and even some game shanks will work.
 
I believe that braised dishes are usually better the next day which makes it a convenient dish to make ahead and heat it up the next day. When it's done cooking, allow it to cool completely before refrigerating in an airtight container.
 
Before reheating, remove any solidified fat and let the meat temper a bit (sit at room temperature for about 15) so you’re not reheating directly from the refrigerator. To reheat, add the shanks back into the Dutch oven, add a little stock, cover, and gently reheat at 325°F until just heated through, about 30 to 45 minutes. Start checking at 30 minutes. Do not reheat any longer than needed.
 
When you’ve got this wonderful hearty dish with lots of sauce, you’re not going to want to waste a drop of it. Serve this this over cheesy polenta, garlic mashed potatoes or a nice risotto. Finally, don’t forget the warm, fresh, crusty Italian bread with an EVOO laced with sliced roasted garlic for dipping.
 
Prep time:  20 minutes
Cook time:  1 – 1-1/2 hours
Reheat time: 30-45 minutes
Yield:  4 to 6 servings
 
Ingredients 
For the Osso Buco
4 ounces pancetta, diced into 1/4 inch cubes (see recipe note)
Flour for dredging the meat before browning
2-1/2 to 3 pounds veal shanks (4 to 6 pieces 2 to 3 inches thick)
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 medium onion (1/4 inch dice)
1/2 cup diced carrot (1/4-inch dice)
1/2 cup diced celery (1/4 inch dice)
2 tablespoons chopped garlic (about 4 cloves)
3 to 4 sprigs fresh thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1 cup red wine
1 to 2 cups chicken stock
 
 
For the Gremolata
2 tablespoons Italian parsley
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons crushed and minced cloves garlic
 
Directions

1. Preheat an oven to 325° F.
2. Heat a Dutch oven on the stove top over medium heat for about 5 minutes. Add pancetta to pan, cook, stirring occasionally.
3. When the pancetta is crispy and most of the fat has rendered (about 5 minutes of cooking), remove the pancetta to a plate covered with some paper towel to drain; set aside.
4. Drain off all but two tablespoons of the fat from the pan.
5. Place the flour in a shallow bowl.
6. Season the veal shanks well with salt and pepper. Dredge the veal shanks with flour, shake off any excess.
7. Add the shanks to the hot pancetta fat in the pan.
8. Increase the heat to medium high and cook the shanks on each side until well browned, about 5 minutes per side.
9. Remove the shanks to a plate, set aside.
10. Add the onions, carrots and celery to the Dutch oven.
11. Cook the onion mixture, stirring frequently, until the onions are translucent (about 5 minutes) and add the garlic and thyme.
12. Continue cooking until the vegetables just begin to brown (about 10 minutes).
13. Add the shanks and the pancetta back to the pan.
14. Pour in the wine and then add enough stock to come up a little more than halfway up the sides of the shanks.
15. Bring to a simmer.
16. Cover the pan and put it in the oven to cook until the meat is tender, about 1 to 1-1/2 hours.

To make the gremolata:

1. Combine the gremolata ingredients, place in a separate small serving dish.
2. Sprinkle on top of mashed potatoes, risotto or polenta.

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ChefSecret:  Pancetta is one of the secrets to making a classic Italian Osso Buco. Do not substitute ordinary bacon for the Pancetta. Pancetta isn't smoked. Ordinary bacon's smoky flavor will overpower the delicate flavor of this veal dish.
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Quip of the Day:  Q. What do you call a hooker that asks for payment in Italian food?
A. A pasta-tute.
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Do you have a question or comment? Send your thoughts to [email protected]. All recipes and cooking tips are posted on our website https://www.perspectives-la.com/perspectives-on-food
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