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Cooking Lesson #407: Béchamel Mac & Cheese

1/19/2022

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…from the California Kitchen

Baking dish with creamy macaroni & cheese with chunks of cheese in background all atop a wooden boardPicture
​How you doin’? Lots of chefs are obsessed with creating new, never-before-seen cooking techniques—some of them actually very good. On the other hand, just because something is new and created by a “star” chef doesn’t mean it’s better.
 
Before we moved our offices and test kitchen last year we dismantled our large library of cooking books—many of them were older collector’s items. These were collections of old-school recipes and cooking school techniques that worked well for hundreds of years—and the results today are still absolutely delicious. Take for example the attached recipe for a century’s old Béchamel Macaroni & Cheese. This is nothing like that blue box of Kraft Mac & Cheese which can’t hold a candle to this recipe.
 
Béchamel sauce is the basic sauce of a creamy mac and cheese. It is a silky white sauce made from milk and thickened with butter and flour (no cheese in the basic sauce). It is one of the five “mother sauces” used in French cooking, meaning it is a base used for other, more complex sauces such as Mornay or Alfredo.
 
Béchamel is a sauce traditionally made from a white roux (butter and flour) and warm whole milk. Béchamel may also be referred to as besciamella, besamel, or white sauce (yes, even Aunt Penny’s is a basic white sauce). Basic Béchamel sauce recipes can include salt, pepper and nutmeg as a seasoning base.
 
Basic white sauce was the culinary invention of Duke Philippe De Mornay in the 16th century. He was the Governor of Saumur and Lord of the Plessis Marly. Béchamel Sauce is a variation of the basic white sauce of Mornay. He is also credited with being the creator of Mornay Sauce, Sauce Chasseur, Sauce Lyonnaise and Sauce Porto.
 
One of the oldest recipes goes back a couple of centuries. It is what I consider the mother of all mac and cheese recipes. It is very simply written—start by making a basic Béchamel sauce by melting butter in a large saucepan over medium heat, then add the same amount of flour and whisk it in. Gradually add warmed milk and a pinch of salt, keep whisking constantly until the mixture starts to thicken--voila!... Béchamel.
 
Next, add some cooked pasta (small shells, elbow, rigatoni, macaroni or penne are all good choices) to the warm Béchamel sauce, and mix in cubes of Fontina cheese and grated Parmesan. Toss everything together, then top it all off with more Parmesan, ground pepper, and a few slices of butter to make the dish simply scrumptious.
 
You’re not done yet… as a final step of this cheesy mixture, sprinkle a handful of bread crumbs over the top and bake it in the oven until the top is golden brown and bubbly.
 
Just because this recipe for Mac and Cheese Bake is centuries old, that doesn’t mean it has any formal measurements. Tossing around some cooked noodles in a classic Béchamel sauce and then adding a ton of cheese and butter isn’t a revolutionary idea. After all, this recipe has been around for hundred of years.
 
Ingredients 
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2-1/2 to 3 cups warm whole milk
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
3/4 cup Fontina cheese
3/4 cup Parmesan cheese
1/2 pound cooked pasta
 
Directions
To make the Béchamel sauce
  1. In a large sauce pan melt the butter.
  2. When the butter is hot sprinkle the flour over the top and whisk well to form a roux. Do not brown the butter.
  3. When the roux has formed slowly add the warm milk, salt, pepper and nutmeg; continue to whisk.
To finish the Mac and Cheese
  1. Preheat an oven to 400⁰ F.
  2. Add the Fontina and about 1/2 cup of Parmesan. When it comes to cheese and seasoning, you can’t make a mistake—a little more or less can’t hurt, just toss and stir.
  3. Add the cooked pasta and stir to combine.
  4. Put the mixture into a large baking dish or smaller personal-size baking dishes and finish in the oven for about 10 minutes until it is bubbly and golden brown on the top.

ChefSecret: Get creative, try different cheeses or add breadcrumbs as a topping. I add a tablespoon of bleu cheese for a sharper flavor. You can use different shapes of pasta or add some extra spices to amp up the flavor. And don’t forget to butter or spray Pam on your baking dish or you’ll be using elbow grease to remove the baked-on cheese .

Quip of the Day: “I don’t know about you, but I’m getting tired of being part of a major historical event.”
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Do you have a question or comment?  Send your thoughts to ed@perspectives-la.com.  All recipes and cooking tips are posted on our website https://www.perspectives-la.com/covid-19-survival-guide.
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To you and everyone dear to you, be strong, be positive, stay well, stay safe and be kind. In this New Year, seek out the good in people and avoid conflict. Take a breath and count your blessings, and if you have a little extra to share with others, please consider donating to Feeding America.

#Entrees #BechamelSauce #MotherSauces #Mac&Cheese #Pasta #Noodles #ComfortFood #Cheese #QuarantineKitchen #Covid19 #FeedingAmerica #PerspectivesTheConsultingGroup

                                  ©Perspectives/The Consulting Group, Inc., 2022

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Cooking Lesson #297:  Thai Peanut Sauce

5/24/2021

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…from the California Kitchen

Bowl of peanut sauce & a bowl of peanuts
How you doin’? I was always under the impression that Peanut Sauce originated in Thailand where it is used as a multi-purpose condiment. But actually, it’s an international favorite, maybe one of the first to stretch across Europe, North America and Asia.
 
Introduced from Mexico by Portuguese and Spanish merchants in the 16th century, peanuts found a place within Indonesian cuisine in a popular sauce. Peanuts thrived in the tropical environment of Southeast Asia, and today, they can be found roasted and chopped finely, topping a variety of dishes and in marinades and dipping sauces.
 
Peanut sauces reached the peak of sophistication in Indonesia, with the delicate balance of taste achieved from various ingredients according to each recipe of peanut sauce; fried peanuts, gula jawa (palm sugar), garlic, shallot, ginger, tamarind, lemon juice, lemongrass, salt, chili, pepper, and sweet soy sauce all ground together and mixed with water to achieve the right texture (in this recipe I use peanut butter).
 
The secret to good peanut sauce is to make it not too thick and not too watery. Indonesian peanut sauce tends to be less sweet than the Thai version (which is a hybrid adaptation). Gado-gado is eaten with peanut sauce throughout Indonesia showcasing the delicate balance of sweet, spicy and sour. Satays are commonly served with peanut sauce. However, satay doesn't actually mean peanut sauce. Southeast Asia’s favorite street food snack is a plate of skewered, grilled meat (pork, beef or chicken) with an infinite variety of sauces.
 
This Peanut Sauce Recipe is my Thai version, because I first learned to make it at the cooking school at the Oriental Bangkok Hotel. It can be used as a dipping sauce or a salad dressing, and can be used on peanut noodles, a drizzle on pizza or with chicken satay.
 
Ingredients
1/2 cup peanut butter natural, unsweetened
2 tablespoons low sodium soy sauce (use tamari or coconut aminos for gluten free)
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 tablespoons brown sugar (or better yet palm sugar if you can find it)
2 teaspoons chili garlic sauce (or to taste)
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
3 garlic cloves pressed or grated
1 tablespoon ginger root grated
2-4 tablespoons warm water
 
Directions
  1. Combine all the ingredients except the water.  Whisk to fully combine.
  2. Add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until desired consistency is reached. I normally use 2 tablespoons for a sauce and up to four if using it for a dressing.

ChefSecret:  My preference is for unsweetened peanut butter.  If you use some commercial brands of peanut butter that include sugar, the sauce may turn out too sweet.  Try reducing the sugar to 1 tablespoon—taste and adjust.

Covid-19 Quip of the Day:  “Have you ever found yourself in the ‘What can I do with a pound of green beans and chocolate cake mix? I think I’m at that stage of needing to go grocery shopping."
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Do you have a question or comment?  Do you want to share a with our readers?  Send your favorite recipes, pictures or thoughts to ed@perspectives-la.com. Recipes and cooking tips are posted on our website https://www.perspectives-la.com/covid-19-survival-guide.
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To you and everyone dear to you, be strong and positive, stay well and safe and be kind to others. If you have a little extra in your pockets to share with others at this difficult time, please consider donating to Feeding America. Thanks for reading.

#Sauces #PeanutSauce #Peanuts #ThaiPeanutSauce #Satay #NPB #NationalPeanutBoard #QuarantineKitchen #Covid19 #FeedingAmerica #PerspectivesTheConsultingGroup

                                              ©Perspectives/The Consulting Group, Inc., 2021

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Cooking Lesson #279: Barbecued Cinco de Mayo Carne Asada Tacos

4/28/2021

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The Cinco de Mayo Collection

Carne Asada Tacos
How you doin’? You may not have thought a whole lot about it, but tacos are a cool food. Now, I’m not talking about the Taco Bell style although I still go back to the “Bell” on occasion. I’m talking about marinated charred steak tacos folded up in homemade-style warm corn tortillas with a Mexican-style, homemade charred salsa.
 
I decided to use Chef Roy Choi’s signature carne asada marinade, which makes the meat impressively flavorful and aromatic. It is a combination of spices and herbs—garlic, scallions, ancho chile powder, jalapeños, fresh cilantro, beer, kiwifruit, mirin and plenty of citrus flavors.
 
It’s not a hot marinade, but it is full flavored and smoky—you can barely taste the heat. The steak tastes bright, fresh, tangy and is perfect for tacos. Making the marinade is no big deal, just take all the ingredients and buzz them together in your blender. 
 
The marinated steak chars up beautifully on the grill, and you can smell all the different ingredients of the marinade as it cooks. I like to take the steak and wrap a nice piece in a toasted corn tortilla with pickled onions, radishes, cilantro, lime, my Charred Salsa, hot sauce and maybe a little queso fresco—any favorite taco toppings will work, especially with a frosty cerveza on the side.
 
Prep time:  10 minutes
Marinade time:  1 hour minimum
Cook time:  10 minutes
Yield:  4 servings
 
Ingredients
6 to 8 large, peeled garlic cloves
1/4 large peeled yellow onion, chopped
3 thick scallions trimmed and roughly chopped into 2” pieces
1/4 cup ancho chile powder
2 jalapeño peppers, stem removed
1/2 bunch fresh cilantro
3/4 cup lager beer
1 orange—juice and grated zest
2 limes—juice and grated zest
1 kiwifruit, peeled
1/4 cup mirin Asian rice wine
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon freshly ground pepper
1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
2 pounds skirt steak
Olive oil, for brushing grill
Corn tortillas
Your favorite taco toppings, for serving
Salsa (see recipe below)
 
Directions
  1. In a blender jar or food processor, combine the garlic, onion, scallions, chile powder, jalapeños, cilantro, lager, orange juice and zest, lime juice and zest, kiwifruit, mirin, salt, pepper, and sugar. Purée until smooth, about 30 seconds.
  2. Pat the steak dry and season both sides with salt and pepper. Place the steak in a shallow dish and pour the marinade over the steak until it’s fully submerged. Cover and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or up to 1 day.
  3. When ready to grill, pull the steak out of the marinade, letting the excess marinade drip off for about 30 seconds.
  4. Heat the grill to high heat, and brush with the oil. Cook the steak for 10 minutes, flipping halfway through, until the outside is nicely charred, and the inside is medium (125° F), or cook to your preference.
  5. Let the meat rest for 5 to 10 minutes under tented foil before slicing.
  6. Slice the steak and serve warm with corn tortillas, salsa (salsa recipe below) and your favorite taco toppings. 
ChefSecret:  You may never buy another jar of salsa again after trying my Charred Tomato Salsa.
 
                                                 Charred Tomato Salsa

Prep time:  15 minutes
Cook time:  10 minutes
Cool time: 30 minutes
Yield: roughly 3 cups
 
Ingredients
4 medium (about 1 pound) plum tomatoes
2 jalapeño peppers, stems, seeds and seams removed
2 garlic cloves
1/2 white onion, cut into 4 wedges
1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon tequila
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Taco and tortilla chips, for serving
 
Directions
  1. Heat a heavy skillet over high heat. Working in batches, sear the plum tomatoes, jalapeños, garlic and onion until charred all over, 5 minutes for the tomatoes and garlic, and 8 minutes for the jalapeños and onion. You want to see the black from the char.
  2. Put the seared tomatoes in a paper bag to steam to make the skins easier to remove.
  3. Remove the skins from the tomatoes.
  4. Transfer all the charred vegetables to the bowl of a food processor and let them cool completely.
  5. Add the cilantro, lime juice and tequila and pulse until a get a chunky purée.
  6. Season with salt and pepper to your taste, then transfer to a bowl.
 
Covid-19 Quip of the Day: “Husbands are the best people to share secrets with. They’ll never tell anyone anything because they aren’t even listening.”
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Do you have a question or comment?  Do you want to share a favorite recipe or pictures with our readers?  Send your thoughts to ed@perspectives-la.com.  All recipes and cooking tips are posted on our website https://www.perspectives-la.com/covid-19-survival-guide.
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To you and everyone dear to you, be strong and positive, stay well and safe and be kind to others. If you have a little extra in your pockets to share with others at this difficult time, please consider donating to Feeding America. Thanks for reading.

#Entrees #Beef #CarneAsada #Tacos #CincoDeMayo #Salsa #Tortillas #QuarantineKitchen #Covid19 #FeedingAmerica #PerspectivesTheConsultingGroup

                                             ©Perspectives/The Consulting Group, Inc., 2021

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Cooking Lesson #219:  Making The Best Burger

2/3/2021

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… from the California Kitchen

The Perfect Burgercredit: amirali mirhashemian
How you doin’? Do you think of yourself as a burger aficionado? If you do, you know the secret of a great burger is the proper ratio of bread to meat. My favorite burger has the perfect balance—having the beef, condiments, and bun in all the right proportions. The people who develop products at McDonald’s, In & Out, Wendy’s know that a perfect burger must be fantastic in all its particulars! And they sell millions of them every day.
 
It starts with a great meat block—usually 80% lean ground beef. The 20% fat makes all the difference in a hot skillet allowing the burger patties to caramelize on the outside and still stay juicy on the inside (as long as you don’t flatten them with a spatula). Then comes the just the right amount of toppings! I like American cheese on my burger because it’s a creamy smooth and meltier than other cheeses. Then what are you going to do for condiments? Ketchup, mustard? Not on my watch! I make a tangy secret burger sauce (recipe below) to keep things moist and flavorful. I top it with a split piece of crisp, salty, smoky bacon. Some people would argue, you need your five-a-day for produce—that’s why I add well-chilled shredded lettuce and a very thin slice of tomato.
 
I like a nice soft bun, not too dense, not too doughy. You just want enough bun to hold everything together, but not so much that it dominates the burger. Likewise, you don’t want to have too much burger that overtakes and sogs out the bun. You want the burger and bun to be at peace with each other.  It should smoosh down a little and meld with the burger, cheese, and toppings, creating the perfect bite and burger.
 
Prep time:  10 minutes
Cook time:  5 minutes
Yield:  4 burgers
 
Ingredients
1 pound ground beef (80/20)
Salt, to taste
Black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon peanut oil
8 slices cheese of your choice
4 soft burger buns
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups shredded iceberg lettuce
4 slices of tomato
4 slices cooked crisp bacon
Burger sauce (recipe below)
 
Directions
  1. Preheat the oven to 350º. Make the burger sauce (recipe below) and set it aside.
  2. Divide the ground beef into 8 burgers, roll them into balls, and season them liberally with salt and pepper. Do not overwork the meat or your burgers will be tough.
  3. Heat a large cast-iron pan or griddle over medium-high until it’s hot, brush on the peanut oil, and then add the burger balls, pressing them down once with the back of a flat spatula.
  4. Cook the burgers until they’re crispy, about 3 minutes, and then flip and cook the second side. Try to resist pressing down on the patties too much.
  5. While burgers are cooking, lightly butter the buns and toast them in the oven until warmed through and lightly crispy, about 5 minutes.
  6. Place a slice of cheese on each burger, and then stack patties, so you have 4 double-decker burgers. Allow the cheese to melt.
  7. To assemble each burger: spread burger sauce on the bottom half of the bun, top with lettuce, burger patties, tomato slice and split a piece of bacon, placing both halves atop the burgers. Spread burger sauce on the top bun, set it on the burger, and you’re ready to go.
 
                                                      Not-So Secret Sauce
 
Ingredients
1-1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons roasted red pepper, rough chopped
2 tablespoons dill relish
6 shakes Tabasco sauce
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon liquid hickory smoke (Wright’s brand)
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Salt, to taste
Black pepper, to taste
 
Directions
  1. In a food processor, combine all the sauce ingredients and pulse until incorporated but not puréed.
  2. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week.
 
ChefSecret: We’ve made our burgers double-decker because it’s fun, but this recipe works great with a slightly thicker single burger, too.
 
Covid-19 Quip of the Day:  Covid-19 quick and easy self-testing-- I tried this test and it truly works!
  • Take a glass and pour a dram or two of your favorite whisky into it; then see if you can smell it. If you can, then you are halfway there.
  • Then drink it. If you can taste it then it is reasonable to assume you are currently free of the virus because the loss of the sense of smell and taste are common symptoms.
  • I tested myself 7- or 8-times last night and was virus free each and every time, thank goodness.
  • I will have to test myself again today because I have developed a throbbing headache which can also be one of the symptoms.
  • I'll report my results later.
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Do you have a question or comment?  Do you want to share a favorite recipe or pictures with our readers? Send your thoughts to ed@perspectives-la.com.  All recipes and cooking tips are posted on our website https://www.perspectives-la.com/covid-19-survival-guide.
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To you and everyone dear to you, be strong, be positive, stay well, stay safe and be kind—that’s the American way. If you have a little extra in your pocket to share with others at this difficult time, please consider donating to Feeding America. Thanks for reading.

#Entrees #Burger #DoubleBurger #Cheeseburger #SecretSauce #QuarantineKitchen #Covid19 #FeedingAmerica #PerspectivesTheConsultingGroup

                                                 ©Perspectives/The Consulting Group, Inc., 2021

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Cooking Lessons #159 Mom’s Turkey Giblet Gravy

11/9/2020

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The 2020 Holidays Recipe Collection

Roast Turkey with Giblet Gravy
How you doin’? There are so many important interchangeable parts to a classic Thanksgiving Day turkey dinner—and you don’t want to miss any of them. Just think, what would turkey, stuffing and mashed potatoes be without a classic gravy made with the turkey giblets (neck, liver, heart, gizzard) already roasting and browning in the oven with the bird. Close your eyes as you read this, and you may even get a waft of the aroma from the turkey roasting in my imaginary oven. Giblet gravy, a gravy made with the choicest pieces of the bird, is considered the queen of gravies.
 
Turkeys were plentiful in jolly ole England before 1550. They arrived there having made their way to Europe on Spanish ships transporting them from the new world. The Pilgrims and other British colonists already had recipes for turkey before they landed in North America.
 
Back then, it was like shooting turkeys in a barrel--they would find flocks of up to 5,000 wild turkeys gathered by rivers and stream… a veritable feast for the starving colonists. In addition to boiling, frying, and baking them, roasting was one of the most common means of preparing turkey in colonial times.
 
Amelia Simmons’ recipe in American Cookery calls for stuffing the bird with bread stuffing, roasting, and basting it. In what may have set the precedent for the modern Thanksgiving Day dinner, Amelia instructs her reader to cook and serve the turkey with cranberry-sauce, mashed potatoes and gravy, of course.
 
This is mom’s recipe for Giblet Gravy. It is very rich and delicious. I love it. I think it’s the best turkey gravy, but then that’s what I grew up eating at every Thanksgiving Day feast.
 
Prep time:  20 minutes
Cook time:  1 hour
Yield: 12 4-ounce servings
 
Ingredients
4 ounces turkey giblets, uncooked
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup diced yellow onion
1-quart cold water
1/3 cup turkey fat (or chicken fat or butter)
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1-1/2 quarts hot stock (from cooking giblets, plus turkey stock or drippings)
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
 
Directions
  1. In a medium pot, simmer the giblets, bay leaf, onion and water until the giblets are tender, approximately 1 hour.  When done, discard the onion and bay leaf.
  2. Strain and reserve the broth.
  3. Dice the giblets into 1/8-inch pieces or chop with a French knife.
  4. Melt the turkey fat. Add flour and cook for 5 to 10 minutes to form a medium light-colored roux.
  5. Add the stock to the roux, stirring with a wire whip.  Cook until smooth and glossy.
  6. Add the salt and diced giblets.
  7. Serve hot over turkey, stuffing and mashed potatoes.
           
ChefSecret:  If planning to make stuffing and gravy using turkey giblets, you may need to ask your meat shop manager to toss in some additional giblets just to make sure you have enough for all you want to cook. Remember, you can never have enough gravy or stuffing.

Covid-19 Quip of the Day:  “Why did the turkey cross the road?  Because the turkey behind it didn’t know how to socially distance properly.”
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Do you have a question or comment?  Do you want to share a favorite recipe or pictures with our readers?  Send your thoughts to ed@perspectives-la.com.  All recipes and cooking tips are posted on our website https://www.perspectives-la.com/covid-19-survival-guide. We have added a new search feature to make it easier to navigate through our blogs. 
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Here is wishing you the very best for the upcoming holidays. To you and everyone dear to you, be strong, be positive, stay well, stay safe and be kind welcoming in the holiday season. If you have a little extra in your pockets to share with others at this difficult time, please consider donating to Feeding America. Thanks for reading.

#ThanksgivingRecipe #Thanksgiving #Gravy #GibletGravy #TurkeyGravy #Sauces #HolidayRecipes #Holidays2020 #Thankful #QuarantineKitchen #Covid19 #FeedingAmerica #PerspectivesTheConsultingGroup 

                                                  ©Perspectives/The Consulting Group, Inc., 2020

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